This is the first soft shoe I have owned and I was a little nervous to commit to them but after one or two sessions I absolutely fell in love with them. I was blown away by how well I could feel the rock and how well the rubber stuck. All the great stuff you have read about these shoes is true.
From the look to the feel these are perfect! Great shoes, and the fit couldn't be better. The sizing recommendations are spot on!
I’ve been climbing a few years now and have owned four or five other pairs. This has definitely been the best pie of climbing shoes I’ve owned. The rubber sticks to everything, I actually feel confident making moves off of small foot chips where my old shoes could never provide that. The design is also awesome, it’s simple but sticks out with the on the roam logo.
My favorite shoes in my rotation right now (I rotate between these, Sportiva Solutions, Sportiva Otakis, and Butora Acros). I've also owned and beat to death the Sportiva Skwamas and Scarpa Vapor V's. Out of all of these, my favorite to session steep stuff is the New Zero. Aggressive yet super comfy. Crazy soft. Seriously the stickiest rubber I've ever used. The perfect steep sport climbing/bouldering set up. One gripe though...
So Ill needs to use better glue during production. The glue attaching the toe rand and the toe patch rubber to the grey neoprene-like outer material began to delam early in spots, leaving huge gaps in high-stress areas in the gap between the toe patch rubber and toe rand. It got so bad that a hole started developing in one shoe (So Ill was awesome enough to replace that pair for free - thanks!!!). The glue holding the heel rand against the pull tabs in the back of both shoes delammed and now the ends of the pull tabs that should be neatly tucked inside the rubber are sloppily hanging out. The glue holding the actual heel rubber to the heel rand is starting to delam and peel away. I don't think it will get to the point where the entire heel will peel off, but it's happening enough that I have to mention it.
I'm hoping production and quality control in the New Zero Pro and Free Range Pro is better and that So Ill has fixed these glue problems. Because otherwise, I love these shoes.
The New Zero by So iLL is absolutely fantastic. It has the perfect amount of aggression to how incredibly soft it is. The toes feel the hold and at the same time the toe is completely reinforced. The single velcro strap has a degree of motion for the atratchent giving relief or stress to different parts of the foot as needed or preferred. The only downside is my own Neanderthalic protruding heal hump that makes getting these slick sendy slippers on and off the real challenge.
• NEW ZERO •
The synthetic vegan upper fits like a slipper, and the fabric is normally used on the inside of durable work boots in the footwear industry. For a shoe at this level, it is incredibly comfortable. The thread we use for the upper is specially made in the southeast as one of the softest threads in the world, and cannot be felt in the toe box. This shoe is sensitive and every detail matters when performing at a high level.
No Hot Spots
Dark Matter toe rubber meets the rand by butting up together, with no overlapping. This is incredibly hard to do in production and provides no hot spots.